Trip Report 2009 Days 8 – 14

Richard Kovac

Holiday
25th May – 7th June 2009 5385.7 km
Avg 7.15 Km/L
Cheapest Fuel $1.199/L @ Kewdale, Dearest $3.20/L @ Kunnawarritj
Avg. $1.7258/L
No damage to the Troopy
No flat tyres
No problems at all this was our first trip was without our dog Benny who’d died a month or so earlier. It was to cover the Hunt Oil Road, the Gary Highway, Gary Junction Road, Sandy Blight Junction Road and abandoned section of the Gunbarrel Highway.
Total water taken was 105litres and used a total of 65litres.

Day 8 – Monday June 1st
Up at 0630 we rose with the sun and met a clear sky for a change. It remained dewy so we killed some time to allow the gear to dry out a bit and Richard made the 0700 schedule with Alice Springs. We found a dead beetle that a brilliant metallic green. On checking out the Ghost Gums some were completely hollow and yet still growing, how do they do it!! We broke camp at 0830 and were at WhauWhau Well within 5 mins (good place to camp).

We got the WAPET road, Gary Hwy junction at 1012 and turned up the WAPET road to Kunnawarrtji. Robyn had forgot that it was a public holiday Monday and we were unsure if we’d be able to get fuel or if we’d have to camp the night at Well 33 (again). We had an escort of camels for a couple of kms until they finally vacated the road to allow us a bit more speed. Not long after we saw Kidson Airfield (1040),

we were back in dune country and large area’s had been burnt out, camels were more plentiful and we saw an abandoned vehicle in the middle of the road.

Looks like a Queenslanders Truck 🙂

We called into the solar bore/tank and put two gerry cans of diesel in the Troopy, odometer reading 1003.3km with both tanks just above empty and took off the spinifex shield.

We got into Kunnawarrtji at 1240, and while we had to wait for the managers to finish lunch we were fuelled up and gone by 1330. In the interim we were speaking with “John” from Pt. Hedland TAFE who was teaching in the communities about back hoes and attachment maintenance etc. While we waited an Ocker joined the queue for fuel.

There had been recent rains (within the last few days) and there was water lying in the roadside drains and low lying areas. The Gary Junction Road (Jenkins Track) was in good condition with a couple of rutted areas and occasional corrugations, but easily 60-80km/hr. Just up the road when it back evident that road speeds were higher Richard increase tyre pressure by 5psi so the front had 32.5psi and rear had 50psi.

Gary Junction

We were back at the Gary Hwy and stopped to mark the occasion then continued on. We were struggling to find a camp when Richard saw a drum out of the corner of his eye and turned in.

This proved to have large “rooms” that many could have camped in. A very pebbly base but otherwise tree lined rooms opened up into another similar space.

We picked one and made camp (back in the L shape). We topped up the blue water bottle again tonight. We thought we could hear/see bats flying around in the early evening. It was dusk at 1730 and Richard made the schedule at 1800.

Day 9 – Tuesday June 2nd
Again up at 0630 to clear skies, later a cloud bank followed us East becoming patchy at sunset. Richard made the Alice Springs sched at 0730 and we emptied the porta potty (refiling the reservoir with the rest of the water in the yellow water container on the roof), topped up both water bottles in the car (blue and 20L) before we broke camp at 0820, getting to Jupiter Well at 0903. Low lying area and quarries remained filled with water but road still good condition.

The desert oaks warning you of arrival to the region of Jupiter Well,

then you just look for the bore, using bore water we refilled the yellow container.

We also saw the original well site which was across the road and had fairly new plaques depicting it.

We got to Kirrirrkurra at 1140, had planned to fuel up but nothing was open. We met Peter and Heather from SA travellers having lunch while the store was closed for a 1-2hr period. We swapped call signs and road conditions and we left them to their lunch. We found the old burnt out truck that was once Len Beadell near the water tank, there was also an interesting aboriginal monument.

We put our clocks on 45mins.
We saw a few of Len’s plaques, and many land formations during the afternoon, and took pictures of several but generally didn’t stop for much. At the WA/NT border there was an out station with two vehicles that also headed east. We got to Kintore at 1545 and had planned to stay the night but that was not possible. So after mingling with two other vehicles waiting for the bowser to open (on the half hour) we got some fuel, supplies and then headed on down the road. Between Kintore and Sandy Blight Junction Road we passed another 3 vehicles heading West. The country was spectacular and Mt Leisler is very impressive, again running short of time we made camp near it’s base where someone else had been and using their old fire burnt cardboard and other flammable rubbish.

Mt Leisler

Not used to having a fire we enjoyed it during dusk (1500 WA time or 1850 NT time) and a temperature of 220C, which dropped to 140 within 90mins. We were confused about what time we should be using and decided to remain on WA time.
The evening schedule was not a happy affair with someone at Rudall River learning of a family death, the same person had put a stake through the bottom of their vehicle and they had several other mishaps. We must have come south enough to be in the flight path again and saw 2 planes overhead while around the fire. Camped in the straight line again and used the awning. Robyn’s head lamp batteries went again, so only a weeks use from the batteries, the sugar container was also topped up.

Day 10 – Wednesday June 3rd
NB: WA time.
Up at 0630 to clear skies, checked the tyres and dropped pressure again by 5psi, then left camp at 0730. At 0830 we got the Marker of Tropic of Capricorn, one of the post had fallen over so Richard dug a hole to put it upright again,

we then took a road that lead off to rockholes. It had a water resources post near it and evidence of camels drinking from it.

All day was game of hide and seek finding all the blaze tree’s and plaques littered along the way. We had Mt Leisler in the rear view mirror for many miles as it slowly got smaller. At 1100 we crossed the NT/WA border again. We moved into more dune country and many of the dune bypasses had short cuts over the dunes. We took the long way around including one that it seems was blocked off and became a washout that was nearly a river bed. Realising too late to turn around we preserved and was glad to re-join the road some time later. At 1400 we got to Sir Fredrick Range turnoff.

There were two vehicles coming down as we headed up. They had got to the 1.6m point, choosing not to do the last 0.3m as it was very rutted and covered in smooth stones that the tyres didn’t seem to grip that well.

We did the same, the view was amazing.
Then back into more dune and scrub country with some desert oaks and country changing every 30mins, abandoned cars became the norm. Over one rise from seeing a young family of camels we came upon a bus that was abandoned.
It proved difficult to find a camp that night so parked up the Troopy under a couple of desert oaks at 1630 and slept in the back with the ground sheet out only.

We topped up the blue 5L water bottle again and Richard made the sched at 1830.

Day 11 – Thursday June 4th
At 0630 and 90C we awoke and broke camp at 0735, the day held patchy cloud. At 0815 we were at the Tjukurla turn off and the road became wide and in good condition. We turned into Bungabiddy Rockholes at 0850. The people we saw yesterday at Sir Fredrick Range were there too. They were geologists and were travelling everywhere and hoped to end up in Broome. We saw them again at Giles later but not to speak to.

The Rockhole was spectacular, you could swim across the water hole and climb a rope to keep exploring, needless to say we stayed dry. Saw plaque on a tree of locals resting place, what a beautiful spot to put someone’s ashes.

We found more plaques and blaze trees before pulling into Giles at 1130 and fuelling up. A young couple were working 3 of their 12 month stint at the roadhouse (he was from NSW while she was from Adelaide). Then out to the meteorology station. We revisited the old grader that the Gunbarrel construction team used and the Blue streak rocket space junk then a guy said there was a show and tell inside one of the rooms. Worth a look, it included weather and history information, originals of Len Beadells

including the painting from the mess hall wall and information on Giles (the explorer) with a photo of his grave stone at Coolgardie. Then onto the abandoned section of the Gunbarrel Hwy, where we saw more blaze trees and plaques, changing landscape and road conditions. Again a few puddles on the road and odd shower nearby. We made camp at 1625 in the same fashion as the previous night and had a couple of light showers of rain in the early evening. Richard made the sched and that night we heard the noise of camels nearby.

We tried to see them with the night vision glasses but while Richard could see them Robyn couldn’t.

Day 12 – Friday June 5th
Up again at 0630 to clear skies until later that night when it became very overcast (~2000). We left camp at 0740 and got to more rockholes at 0910. Area’s around the west end of VanDerLinden lakes becomes a good road and continues onto Jackie Junction. Again the day was littered with finding various points of interest from Len’s books and nature (like rockholes), some cages to keep animals out, especially camels.

We got to Jackie Junction at 1112 and stayed with the Gunbarrel Hwy. We found bullet cases at the junction where people had taken pot shots at the signs.
Road deteriorates from this point becoming more corrugated and weathered, especially around Mt Charles (reached at 1300). The roads become water ways and the original road is >6feet deep in stages and the road is now the fourth detour since the original as they all become washed out.

Even the Heather Hwy had some serious washouts. At 1545 we got to the Heather Hwy/Tjirrkarli Road junction and raised the tyre pressure by 5psi again. We set off to find a camp which didn’t materialise and we pulled into Tjukayirla Roadhouse at 2000.

We had tried to call ahead but couldn’t get through, and after failed attempts of trying to get their attention (we could hear them around the back with friends) we were starting to make camp outside when they heard us and let us into the caravan park for $10/night. We filled the blue water bottle again, and apart from avoiding an emu who seemed at home there, it was wonderful to have a shower and wash our hair….

Day 13 – Saturday June 6th
Up again at 0630 but this time the cloud had not cleared and remained very dense overhead for most of the day. We left at 0750 and headed for Laverton and a refuelling and aired up the tyres to normal running ~10psi higher to front 45psi and rear 65psi. We visited the Explorers Hall of Fame, too much to see and we bought a few books and got some lunch as we were in Laverton from 1150 – 1250.
Got into Kalgoorlie ~1630 and drove to the Tourist mine to check out opening times (0900 – 1630) so we knew when to come back the next day.

Visited the super pit and took a drive around town before checking into a motel $136/night. Richard logged into the computer for the first time in a week and caught up on all his emails. Another shower, “Cantina” pizza, watching the “Wrestler” – who could ask for more…

Day 14 – Sunday June 7th
Up at 0700 and a leisurely breakfast, a drive around town then finally getting to the Old mine and Hall of Fame for opening.

Did the underground tour (tested out Richards hip) which was good and saw the sights, then into the Hall of Fame.

Robyn liked the gardens and we got lunch before leaving to see a blast at the Super pit along with many others.

Then a quick trip to the Museum and out of town via a lake reserve, where quad bikes and trail bikes were all the go, it included an old quarry dam.
At Coolgardie we got fuel and visited the cemetery to find Ernest Giles grave.

Then home to Bruce Rock, but didn’t quite make it in time for the sched so pulled over in a parking bay just out of town to call in. could only get through via relay from 333 (who’d relayed for many during the whole 2 weeks). We got home at 1830.

This has been the best trip we have had so fare, you learn so much as you travel, that it makes you have to do it all again….

Words by Robyn and Richard
Photos by Richard

All Photos can be seen @ https://profile.live.com/cid-e092a94edb141da4/#!https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=e092a94edb141da4&sc=photos